James Joyce once said, "When I die Dublin will be written in my heart." Following my trip to the wonderful country of Ireland and to this amazing city, I can definitely see where Joyce was coming from. There is just something about Dublin that struck a cord with me. The culture is infectious in the best way possible and the industrial feel to the architecture is beautiful in a unique way.
My trip to Dublin's fair city with Brittanee began on Friday night with an Aer Lingus flight from Heathrow. After our traditional trip to Snog and a long Tube ride, we made it to the airport and before we knew it we were landing in Ireland. I thought it was really interesting that everything on the flight was announced in both English and Gaelic. This is because these are both Ireland's official languages. Once out of the airport, we took a bus into the city center and walked to our hostel, the Globetrotters Tourist Hostel. Our room in this hostel was amazing! We stayed in an eight-person female room and it was huge. It was basically a large loft with eight beds, skylights, a kitchenette, and a bathroom. It felt more like a hotel to me than any of the other hostels we stayed at. Because we wanted to get an early start the next morning, we went straight to bed.
In the morning, we woke up early and went down to breakfast. Because the building our hostel was in was split with a bed and breakfast, it had a fabulous breakfast selection! We especially enjoyed the poached eggs, potatoes, soda and brown breads, and of course coffee. After mapping out a plan for the day, we departed the hostel.
Early on a Saturday morning, it felt as though the city was just awaking. The streets were very empty and we had a great time walking along the River Liffey for the first time taking in sights like the Custom House and cool bridges.
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View down the Liffey |
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The Custom House |
We decided to head south of the river to visit Grafton Street and Merrion Square. Along the way, we ran into our good buddy Molly Malone, made famous for the self-titled song which has become an unofficial anthem for Dublin City. The popular song which tells the story of her life begins as follows:
- In Dublin's fair city,
- Where the girls are so pretty,
- I first set my eyes on sweet Molly Malone,
- As she wheeled her wheel-barrow,
- Through streets broad and narrow,
- Crying, "Cockles and mussels, alive, alive, oh!"
- "Alive, alive, oh,
- Alive, alive, oh",
- Crying "Cockles and mussels, alive, alive, oh".
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Hanging out with sweet Molly Malone |
Next, we headed towards Merrion Square to see Oscar Wilde's house. It was cool to see his home, as he is one of the most well-known Irish writers throughout history. Today, his house is a part of the Irish American University.
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Brittanee in front of Wilde's house |
Across from Oscar Wilde's house was a large park called Merrion Square. Although we couldn't enter the park because it hadn't yet opened, we walked around its perimeter and saw some of the beautiful flowers, paths, and statues. My favorite one was the Oscar Wilde statue.
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Oscar Wilde Memorial |
Walking back towards Molly Malone, we came across a stunning mosaic wall tucked along side a parking lot. As we walked closer to examine it up close, a local Irishman asked us if we wanted some more information about the mural. He ran inside and grabbed a sheet of information which described the traditional myth which was depicted throughout the mosaics.
Continuing on, we made our way to Grafton Street, which has many shops and street performers. We spent some time window shopping before exploring St. Stephen's Square. This park is filled with ornate fountains and blooming flowers. We walked around the main pond soaking in the chirping birds and sunlight.
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Arch and St. Stephen's Square |
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A quick picture with the pond |
Then, we made our way to see Dublin's famous cathedrals. Our first stop was St. Patrick's Cathedral. St. Patrick's was founded in 1191 and is the largest church in Ireland. It is very gothic in design and is quite a sight to behold. Juxtaposed with the bright blooming tulips in the yard, its dark stone and imposing spires were breathtaking.
Along the eastern edge of the grounds, there were memorials to many of the great Irish writers. I enjoyed reading each to refamiliarize myself with their works.
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Yeats Memorial |
Our next cathedral was Christ Church Cathedral which was just up the road. Although not as amazing as St. Patrick's this is still a beautiful church tucked in between the Liffey and the industrialized area south of the river.
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Christ Church Cathedral |
Following Christ Church, we walked past the Dublin Castle and City Hall on our way to the Ha'Penny Bridge which spans the Liffey. It is one of the most magnificent bridges in Dublin because of its white cast-iron sides and decorative overhead arches. This bridge is so named because individuals used to have to pay a half-pence to cross the Liffey on the bridge.
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Ha'Penny Bridge |
After crossing the river, we ventured up O'Connell Street which used to be the widest shopping high street in all of Europe. Although today it is only considered the largest shopping district in Ireland, it is one of the most bustling and alive areas of the city. The center of the road features many statues while each side of the street has hundreds of stores and restaurants.
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Statue at the head of O'Connell Street |
Walking up the thoroughfare, we came across the General Post Office which plays a large role in the history of Ireland. The Easter Rising of 1916 began when the leaders of the rebellion read out a Proclamation of the Republic from the GPO. This building also acted as the rebel headquarters and many leaders of the revolution, including James Connolly, Patrick Pearse, Tom Clarke, Sean Mac Dermott, and Joseph Plunkett, were stationed.
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General Post Office |
As we continued onwards, we stopped to take pictures with the James Joyce statue and to enjoy some bulk candy.
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Me and Joyce |
Further up O'Connell Street, we visited the Dublin Writers' Museum. My freshmen year of college at BU, I had the pleasure of taking a writing class entitled
Writing Modern Irish Identities. I loved this class so much, because we had the chance to cover in depth many of the famous Irish writers including Joyce, Yeats, McGahern, and Heaney. Because of my experiences with this class, I was very excited to have the opportunity to see a museum that pays homage to all of these greats.
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Dublin Writers' Museum |
Inside the museum, I got to see letters, literature, and personal memorabilia from Ireland's most famous writers. The displays were very well orchestrated and the audio guide provided very insightful facts and stories about each of the writers. This gave a greater meaning to everything that we were able to see in the collection. I also got to see the chair that Handel used during his first public performance of
The Messiah.
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Gorgeous room upstairs in the museum |
Following our trip to the museum, we took a walk past the James Joyce Museum before heading to Temple Bar for some lunch. After snapping a few pics in front of
The Temple Bar and listening to some street musicians, we settled down at a cute cafe for some sandwiches and chips. Feeling exhausted and in need of a good nap and shower, we departed for our hostel for some well-deserved rest and relaxation.
Before returning to the Temple Bar district for dinner and a little night life, we played a game of Trivial Pursuit: Irish Edition. It was really fun reading questions about some of the places we had already seen and were planning on seeing the next day. We laughed through our attempts to answer the questions and had a great time.
For dinner, we headed to a restaurant entitled
Mexico to Rome for some delicious nachos. Next, we moved on to the Temple Bar to enjoy a pint of Bulmers cider and the live music. Although packed and rather touristy, we loved hearing some of the classic Irish tunes like Molly Malone.
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Nearly every bar in the Temple Bar district featured live music |
Finishing our pints, we decided to walk down the street to a second bar called
The Quays Bar. This pub featured a wonderful guitar player who took requests and played everything from Coldplay's
Yellow to The Fray's
How to Save a Life. My favorite tune of the night was his rendition of the traditional song
Galway Girl.
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Guitar player at The Quays |
After many songs, we left the bar to meet up with our friend Miranda who had just traveled into Dublin from Galway. Meeting her at the Ha'Penny Bridge, we returned to the bar to hear some more music.
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Brittanee, Me, and Miranda |
Later, we retired to our hostel for the night. On the way back, we took in the lights of the city along the Liffey.
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The Liffey by night |
In the morning, we had a quick breakfast at the hostel before walking westward along the Liffey towards Phoenix Park. On a beautiful Sunday morning, the park was filled with bright sunshine, green grass, and blooming trees. We sat for a while in the shade while planning out our walking route for the day.
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Phoenix Park |
From the park, we next visited the Wellington Monument found just adjacent to the gardens we were sitting in. This monument is similar in style to the Washington Monument, but much smaller. We tried our hand at action photography as we attempted to capture a jumping photograph near the monuments base.
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Wellington Monument |
Our next stop for the day was the Kilmainham Gaol Prison. This prison plays an important role in the history of Ireland as it was the location where the leaders of the 1916 Rebellion were imprisoned and later executed.
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Yard of the Prison |
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Flag in the execution yard where the 1916 Rebellion leaders were killed |
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Lock on a cell |
During our visit, we participated in a tour which did a wonderful job of explaining the history of the prison and its inmates. I found it particularly interesting to hear that the prison was also home to many children throughout its use. Prior to reform schools, many students were sent here to serve time. Also, I learned that the East wing of the prison was based on Jeremy Bentham's Panopticon, a prison designed with the all seeing eye kept in mind.
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Easy Wing |
This wing also was built with high windows in each cell to encourage prisoners to seek the light of God from above. Finally, our tour guide shared that this wing has been used as a set to film many movies and has even played host to musical groups such as Bono for recording sessions due to its great acoustics.
Upon the recommendation of nearly every visitor of Dublin, our next destination was the Guinness Storehouse.
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Inside the Storehouse |
The most popular tourist attraction in the city, the Storehouse can be described as something similar to Disney World for Guinness. Throughout our visit, we explored the various exhibits which describe the creation process of this famous dry stout from start to finish. Brewed of water, barley, hops, and yeast, this drink is still one of the most unique and most well-known drinks throughout the world.
My favorite part of the Storehouse was seeing some of the classic adverts for this drink. After my Advertising in the UK course during the first phase of my program, I recognized many of these ads.
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Classic Guinness adverts |
We concluded our trip to Guinness with a visit to the Gravity Bar. With a perfectly poured pint of Guinness in hand, we were able to take in 360 degree views of the city. Because of our time crunch, Miranda and I finished our pints in about 20 minutes and then took some victory photos with our empty glasses.
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Enjoying my Guinness |
Feeling hungry, we returned to the Temple Bar District to eat a late lunch. By suggestion, we tried a cafe called
Queen of Tarts. It had many savory quiche like tarts and sumptuous pastries. All of our food was downright delectable!
Our final stops in the city included a return trip to St. Patrick's and a visit to Trinity College. After seeing these sites and purchasing a few souvenirs, we made our way back to our hostel and finally to the airport.
Dublin fulfilled all of my hopes for this trip. A lively city filled with music and strong traditions, it is hard not to get swept up in the Irish spirit. I hope that someday I will be able to return to the city once again.